Click on pictures to see them full-sized.
|5 bridge stringers (brings the total up to 11 - or about 44 feet of bridge.)|
|The old Wood Station Water Tower (to become the new Telluride Water Tower after some rebuilding.)|
|The Tee Riding Car which will not see much use on the railroad but will provide a car which I will not need to empty before passengers going for a ride (rare as it is.)|
|The Telluride Water Tower, complete with concrete base. This water tower will sit on a purpose built foundation just to the left of where I was standing when I took this picture, right at the end of the proper bridge.|
|Heat and then mud can really seize up a truck.|
The water tower is currently undergoing repair now. I have removed 4 (out of 6) of the tank bands, cleaned and primed them already. I have also taken some of the wood out to measure it and see what kind of wood was used. I am thinking that the wood is cedar fencing cut in two. I plan on purchasing some to cut to length first and then pass through the table saw to cut an 8 degree bevel as I split the wood in half which should be the correct dimension. They will be about 1" longer to make sure the water drips clear of the tank floor. I plan on pre-painting these Tuscan Red, the color of the R.G.S. water towers, to insure full board coverage before reassembling the tank (slide the wood up under the remaining 2 bands before I replace the other 4 and secure them while I remove, clean and prime these to go back on.) The tank bands will be gloss black. After the tank is reassembled, I will paint it with some Thompson's Water Seal.
The tank, being only a simulated tank, actually functions as a stand pipe with water coming up from a pressurized system. I plan on redoing this with 1/2" copper line, two 45 degree elbows, a quarter turn valve and 2 L-brackets. The valve will be assembled between the 45 degree elbows so it is on a 45 degree slant. That way when the L-brackets are connected to the handle, the one end of the L-brackets connect to the water pull handle and the other to a counter-balance weight which when the handle is released will shut off the water again. The old spout which was made of washing machine outlet tubing will be replaced with a spout made of steel. This spout with also be designed to accomodate other locomotives than the #20 and will have the same pulley / counter balance system of the full sized tanks.
The roof is galvanized steel and will remain unpainted. The steel support legs will be painted gloss black again. I'll have to mask off the concrete base when I do this. I'll paint these before the wood is reinstalled on the sides.
I am hoping to work on this structure during the hotter parts of the summer to get it in service soon. It will sit on a special concrete "ring" down near the end of the Dogwood Bridge next to the front porch of the Craft Building alongside the walkway between the craft building and barn. This puts the tank in the middle of a floodplain. But since the tank's supports extend down 4" below the concrete, I will be installing 4" drain pipe (3 of them) which will be between these supports so water can flow under the tower. The middle of the ring will be partially filled with sand to allow the tower to be seated down into the sand and rest on the concrete ring. It will then be locked in place using cast concrete corners.
Water for the tower will be installed beforehand and will feed over from under the porch of the craft building back under the craft building and then over to the water wood stove where a water line was already installed but not used. But at first I will just connect this line to a water hose from the house to use as we need it. This water line will need to be insulated for any winter use and it was proposed that it can be in the same trunk as the hot water lines which can heat the craft building and barn. But from the ground up to the tower's water valve, this line will need to be inside a frost box which will be made of the same materials as the tower and connect around the rear support legs.
Once the water tower is in place, I will remove and disassemble the trucks on the old car to see what bearings I will need to order. The truck parts will be cleaned and painted and put back together. Then the frame will be rebuilt and heavier wooden sills and end beams made up to beef up the car and get it closer to narrow gauge (2.5") scale before a floor is installed. This car will be a light duty car which can handle lighter loads. It's also possible it will be rebuilt into a box car or some other car which can be used to haul parts to maintain the railroad.
The railroad is growing so fast that I will need to probably replace the car barn switch on the switchback with a newer one and move that switch over inside the car barn yard so I can park some cars in that area before the car barn and engine house are built.
Later this year I plan on getting started on the engine house and car barn. In order to make the building especially strong, it will be cinder block with the cores filled with concrete on a concrete foundation. I also would like to install the tracks on plastic ties and cast concrete for the floor to make it fireproof and easier to slide inside if I need to.
The bridge stringers which will be stored at Pine Hill for the time being will be used on Bridge 2C across Cox Creek from the switchback and Bridge 3A and 3B below Pine Hill. All these items will be put to use as time permits.