Friday, June 24, 2011

Telluride Yard - June 21st, 2011

The yard has been cleared of railroad cars.  The #10 rests alongside the water tower and the #11 rests next to her.  The water tower awaits construction of a spout and the completion of the water system under the shed.  #10 will be heading into the shop next week and the #11 will be getting a tune up this weekend before it begins to handle the roadmaster's train and go out looking for sections of track to level up.

RGS #11 and #10 in the Telluride Yard

RGS #11 and #10 in the Telluride Yard alongside the newly refurbished water tower.

The Telluride track needs a little work too.
Some photos from June 20th with the #10 and water tower.  The #11 was out on the road with the 4686 getting more wood for Wood Station.

Showing the underside of the tower and how the valve works.

The engineer deck for the engineer to get off the locomotive and water and oil around without having to worry about falling off the bridge.

#10 at Telluride

Sunset falls for the day but not for a growing railroad.

Proud old girls,

The engineer deck.  I used old wood from an old wheelchair ramp that was removed and donated to the cause.

#10 awaiting a trip into the shop to get her running again.

Telluide on the Rio Grande Southern R.R. of North Carolina.  (Notice the bridge switch turnout indicator in the background displaying the switch is set to the siding.)

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Tower Progress - June 15

The water tower I had a little trouble with.  The plastic backing of the foam is rather slick so when I slid the last board in, it caused the entire wooden part of the tower to become a barrel and slide down.  So I first added more foam around the top and wooden pieces below to hold the wooden siding in place as I put it back on.

One thing I managed to get done is the mortar between the base of the tower and foundation.  I was not too concerned with "look" on the sides which will be hidden by the raised deck area.  It took roughly one 60 pound bag of mortar.  I left 3 corners of the old concrete open so that I can place wooden beams on the tower foundation to support the deck.

I managed to get the wood up there but found that the foam increased the diameter one additional board.  It means the bolts I bought were too short.  But I am not concerned as the wood looks good.  I did have some smaller bolts from the bridge building project which barely held the tank bands in place.  I will get replacements and install them soon to get the wood tight around the foam.

The back of the tower.  The foundation is done but you can see how the wood has slid down.

The tower with the wooden siding slid down.  The foam is actually hardwood flooring underlayment which will prevent bugs from getting in between the metal and wood and to provide great cushioning of the wood.

The drains across to prevent water from backing up against the tower.  I used excess mortar to try to prevent any undecutting.

The gap between the tower and bridge abutment.  This will be spanned by a board which is raised slightly to go over that edge of the concrete and allow water to run off under.

The back of the foundation where the water drains out.

The tower with the wood in place and the tank band somewhat in place.  When the new bolts are installed (5/16" by 5") the tank bands should be nice and tight and I can remove the bungee cord which I left on there just to prevent the top from trying to shift in the meantime.

Ridgeway's water tower and equipment in storage.  The old burned out coach frame is sitting next to the tower and will move to the House Track later (on a flat as it does not roll.)

Next up, plumbing and then the spout which will be made of copper.

Underside of tower with some of the plumbing in place (mainly because the spring connections.)
I installed some steel straps under the tower to hold the pipes in place and to act as a connection point for the return spring of the water valve.  I have additional straps to add to tightly secure the pipes to the tower.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

More work on tower

The concrete for the tower is complete and drying. In a couple days I will remove the forms and get it ready to move the tower over onto the foundation. The sand is sitting nearby to fill the core and hopefully Lowes has restocked their mortar by now. I need more for the tower as well as the retaining wall in the barn which will allow me to redo the lean-to and enclose that space which will give me room to restore equipment and more room in the barn as I move tools into the new "garage space."

Foundation ring for water tower.  The pipes through are obvious.

The foundation ring for the water tower.  The void will be filled in the sand to support the metal legs of the tower.

The water tower, ready to be installed on the foundation when it's ready.

The siding is coming along nicely. The last of the unpainted wood was painted. About 2/3 of the painted siding was painted a second coat and it's quite a bit more glossy now as it dries. A third coat will complete the painting and I should be able to install the siding onto the tower this weekend along with the water system. The spout will have to be manufactured however and it's not that straightforward to build one. But I do not have an operational steam locomotive yet.

The second coat of paint and the siding is a lot shinier.  One more coat of paint to go.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Water tower progress 5th of June, 2011

Progress has been slow but steady over the past week.  The new tank siding has been purchased, cut and painted.  The wood was cut on an 8 degree angle to allow for the curvature of the tank.

(Click any image to see full sized)

Siding lined up to be painted.

Inside of wood is painted first (to protect it from decades of weather.)  The ends and outside will be painted as well.

The legs of the tower were also painted.  You might notice all the old siding was removed.  I decided to paint all the bands and put a nice foam pad under the wood.  So I will use a bungee cord to hold the wood in place as it's all put back together.

Wood outside awaiting painting on both sides.

Tank masked off so the roof can be repainted.

Silver roof restored.  It was resealed with caulk, primed and then painted.

Tank bands were primed and then painted gloss black.

The foundation was started.  The tower will stand next to the crossover between the craft building and barn.  The railroad is almost on the bridge at this point.  The tank was set off so that a spout roughly the same size as the siding will come down into the middle of the tender's water hatch.  In order for the tower to have plenty of room for the spout to come down, the base of the foundation will be a little higher.  Also, due to the soft ground in the area, the foundation will be deeper and wider.  Also 2 pipes extend from the uphill side to the downhill side to allow water to pass under the tower and not backup over the path.  Water can also pass on either side of the tower.

Foundation outer ring.  There is an inner ring which makes the wall 3-1/2 inches thick all the way around.  The inside will be sand so the legs which pass through the tower's concrete can be firmly planted in sand.

The water tower will service locomotives on track 2.  The idea is, trains will come in on track one, the locomotive will cut off and head to the turntable and pass the train on track 2.  The position of the water tower is back enough to allow the locomotive to stop for water without fouling the switch.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

New equipment and structures - May 30, 2011

This past weekend I went up to Clemmons, N.C. to get from Fred some items he rescued from Farmington after they were abandoned up there as well as some equipment he had which needed to be moved.

Click on pictures to see them full-sized.

5 bridge stringers (brings the total up to 11 - or about 44 feet of bridge.)

The old Wood Station Water Tower (to become the new Telluride Water Tower after some rebuilding.)

The Tee Riding Car which will not see much use on the railroad but will provide a car which I will not need to empty before passengers going for a ride (rare as it is.)

The Telluride Water Tower, complete with concrete base.  This water tower will sit on a purpose built foundation just to the left of where I was standing when I took this picture, right at the end of the proper bridge.

The remains of a passenger car which had burned at Fred's house and then was left in the back in the mud.  The trucks will need to be taken apart and new bearings installed as the old ones have seized up.  The frame I believe we can replace the missing parts and rebuilt it into a light-duty flat car, probably for ties and the like.

Heat and then mud can really seize up a truck.

The water tower is currently undergoing repair now.  I have removed 4 (out of 6) of the tank bands, cleaned and primed them already.  I have also taken some of the wood out to measure it and see what kind of wood was used.  I am thinking that the wood is cedar fencing cut in two.  I plan on purchasing some to cut to length first and then pass through the table saw to cut an 8 degree bevel as I split the wood in half which should be the correct dimension.  They will be about 1" longer to make sure the water drips clear of the tank floor.  I plan on pre-painting these Tuscan Red, the color of the R.G.S. water towers, to insure full board coverage before reassembling the tank (slide the wood up under the remaining 2 bands before I replace the other 4 and secure them while I remove, clean and prime these to go back on.)  The tank bands will be gloss black.  After the tank is reassembled, I will paint it with some Thompson's Water Seal.

The tank, being only a simulated tank, actually functions as a stand pipe with water coming up from a pressurized system.   I plan on redoing this with 1/2" copper line, two 45 degree elbows, a quarter turn valve and 2 L-brackets.  The valve will be assembled between the 45 degree elbows so it is on a 45 degree slant.  That way when the L-brackets are connected to the handle, the one end of the L-brackets connect to the water pull handle and the other to a counter-balance weight which when the handle is released will shut off the water again.  The old spout which was made of washing machine outlet tubing will be replaced with a spout made of steel.  This spout with also be designed to accomodate other locomotives than the #20 and will have the same pulley / counter balance system of the full sized tanks.

The roof is galvanized steel and will remain unpainted.  The steel support legs will be painted gloss black again.  I'll have to mask off the concrete base when I do this.  I'll paint these before the wood is reinstalled on the sides.

I am hoping to work on this structure during the hotter parts of the summer to get it in service soon.  It will sit on a special concrete "ring" down near the end of the Dogwood Bridge next to the front porch of the Craft Building alongside the walkway between the craft building and barn.  This puts the tank in the middle of a floodplain.  But since the tank's supports extend down 4" below the concrete, I will be installing 4" drain pipe (3 of them) which will be between these supports so water can flow under the tower.  The middle of the ring will be partially filled with sand to allow the tower to be seated down into the sand and rest on the concrete ring.  It will then be locked in place using cast concrete corners.

Water for the tower will be installed beforehand and will feed over from under the porch of the craft building back under the craft building and then over to the water wood stove where a water line was already installed but not used.  But at first I will just connect this line to a water hose from the house to use as we need it.  This water line will need to be insulated for any winter use and it was proposed that it can be in the same trunk as the hot water lines which can heat the craft building and barn.  But from the ground up to the tower's water valve, this line will need to be inside a frost box which will be made of the same materials as the tower and connect around the rear support legs.

Once the water tower is in place, I will remove and disassemble the trucks on the old car to see what bearings I will need to order.  The truck parts will be cleaned and painted and put back together.  Then the frame will be rebuilt and heavier wooden sills and end beams made up to beef up the car and get it closer to narrow gauge (2.5") scale before a floor is installed.  This car will be a light duty car which can handle lighter loads.  It's also possible it will be rebuilt into a box car or some other car which can be used to haul parts to maintain the railroad.

The railroad is growing so fast that I will need to probably replace the car barn switch on the switchback with a newer one and move that switch over inside the car barn yard so I can park some cars in that area before the car barn and engine house are built.

Later this year I plan on getting started on the engine house and car barn.  In order to make the building especially strong, it will be cinder block with the cores filled with concrete on a concrete foundation.  I also would like to install the tracks on plastic ties and cast concrete for the floor to make it fireproof and easier to slide inside if I need to.

The bridge stringers which will be stored at Pine Hill for the time being will be used on Bridge 2C across Cox Creek from the switchback and Bridge 3A and 3B below Pine Hill.  All these items will be put to use as time permits.

Construction - May 30th, 2011

The main construction work has been going back and repairing some sinking track.  We have had a lot of rain this spring and it settled down as it was supposed to.  Also, additional extension work to the end of the lower switchback tail track has been going on.  The grading is done and the subroadbed ballast laid all the way up to the end of the track bed at the edge of Cox Creek (at the flood diversion wall.)  The lower switchback switch uses the newer 15/16" aluminum rail mated to older 7/8" aluminum rail which makes up the tail track.  The sprall rail joiner was too loose to hold the connection so I replaced it with the fish plates and bolts on both sides, using a smaller #10 bolt and nut on this older rail.  No more derailments at this location now.  Also tamped up the switch some more.  On the other side of the switch on the switchback, the track is loose still because I need to put the bridge abutment in, build the retaining walls and finish filling below it.

Click any image below for full-sized image.

Telluride is a busy place

Track 1 - #11 and construction train (tie car #300, ballast flat #4686)
Track 2 - #10 awaiting work on prime mover

Looking south along the lower switchback tail track

Flood Diversion wall at Cox Creek and end of switchback grading